Masked Butterflyfish

Napoleonfish

22nd July 2025

The first dive (Dive #1), a check dive, took place at 11:30 in the water at Sha'ab El Erg. The was some current and therefore a little drift dive over bommies and white sand. Nothing really of note to see; Black spotted Puffer, Lionfish, Coronetfish and a school of Damselfish.

In the afternoon we dived the Dunraven (Dive #2), a personal favourite wreck dive of mine that I have dived previously on two occasions; in 2008 and 2014.

Following the guide we made our way through the holds past the boilers and other machinery, all well colonised by coral and fish.

On the outside we found a lot of life including Napoleonfish, a huge Giant Moray, Bluespotted Ray, Ehrenberg's Snapper, Masked Butterflyfish, Striped Butterflyfish and Bullethead Parrotfish.

At just after 8pm that day we did our first night dive (Dive #3) at Beacon Rock. There were several Giant Moray's out hunting, seemingly oblivious or uncaring as to our presence, as was a large school of Jack Trevally and a Red Lionfish. The first image I took on this dive was of a "Spanish Dancer" - Hexabranchus sanguineus - (literally meaning "blood coloured six-gills") a large nudibranch or sea slug, quite a rare find apparently.

A very good first days diving and I looked forward to the dives to come if they were of the same standard.

23rd July 2025

First dive of the day (Dive #4) was Shark and Yolanda in the Ras Mohammed National Park. I have dived it before, at least once, posibly more, and it's a great dive to do. On entry there was a lot of current against us and a lot of air was consumed getting to the shelter of the reef, perhaps they dropped us in at the wrong place! Along with the expected clutter of white procelein I saw a huge Great Barracuda, a school of Bluespine Inicornfish, Napoleonfish, lots of Giant Moray, Blackspotted Pufferfish, Crocodilefish, Bicolour Parrotfish and Redmouth Grouper.

For the second dive (Dive #5) we were at Tiran - Jackson Reef for quite a rapid drift dive, very exhilerating. Lots of Blue Spotted Stingrays Jack Trevally, Red Sea Bannerfish and Coronetfish.

For (Dive #6) we were at Gordon Reef where several of us were attacked by a very aggressive Redtooth Triggerfish, obviously protecting her young, although they were well hidden and we couldn't see them. Yellowfin Tuna, Giant Tuna, Schooling Bannerfish, Coronetfish, Bluespotted Stingray and a lovely Hawksbill Turtle made the dive.

The night dive (Dive #7) turned into a wonderful dive at the end with two Octopus hunting and a pretty Nudibranch - Maria Shagra.

Great Barracuda

Octopus

Arabian Angelfish

Trucks

Scorpionfish

24th July 2025

The first dive of the day (Dive #8), was at Thomas Reef in the Strait of Tiran. The object of the dive was to go deep for the thrill seekers, who have never done it, max depth 40m. We dropped down a coral wall to a crevasse which actually went to a depth of 50m at the deepest, I stopped at 37.3.
There was not much of interest that dive with regard to sea life, there was a medium sized Moray hunting and a school of Blue Luna Fusilliers along with the usual small stuff.

The late morning dive was at Shark and Yolanda (Dive #9), again in the Ras Mohammed National Park. A dive rich with interesting critters including; Hawksbill Turtle, huge Great Barracuda, at least 4 foot long (and that's not a fisherman's tale!), a very friendly Arabian Angelfish, Napoleonfish, Yellowfin Tuna, Blackspotted Puffer, Redtooth Triggerfish, Giant Trevally, Jack Trevally, Spotted Unicornfish, Bluespotted Stingray to name but a few. A very pleasurable dive.

Up next in the afternoon (Dive #10) was, for me, possibly the best dive of the trip - The Thistlegorm. The site was busy and there was some current, inside it was a little bit silty from the passage of previous divers, however, passing through all of the 3 navigable holds and taking in the ubiquitous sights of the equipment and stuff required for the Allied war machine in Egypt, lost forever in the depths of the Red Sea, is an experience like no other.
Ford and Bedford trucks, Norton and Morris jeeps, BSA motorcycles, trailers, cables and electrical equipment, tyres, wellies, and other unidentifiable (for me) things, all sitting there slowly being colonised by coral.

Back outside at the stern for the 40mm anti-aircraft machine gun and the 4.7 inch light anti-aircraft gun, spilt bombs and Bren Carrier Mk11 Tanks from the devastated 4th hold, on towards the bow through the bridge and out to the Coal Tenders from the two locomotives and the crushed Tank Wagons, then off the side to see what is left of the Port side Stanier Class 8F steaam locomotive.

The night dive (Dive #11) was also on and around the upperdeck of the Thistlegorm. Lots of current and occasionally dropped into the open holds for some respite. Many Lionfish have made this their nighttime hunting ground, Turtle, Scorpionfish, Crockodilefish, Moray and a huge school of Hardyhead Silversides.

25th July 2025

The pre-breakfast dive today (Dive #12) was back on the Thistlegorm. I'd had stomach and ear problems the previous day but decided to carry on diving as I could still equalise OK. There was lots of current on the descent and holding on to the shot line, both on the way down and back up, was a must.
The huge school of Hardyhead Silversides was still there, as was the Crocodilefish, along with two large Napoleonfish.

25th July 2025 cont...

Back to the stern anti-aircraft gun then down to the propeller and rudder. back up and through the Bridge and Captain's cabin, see the bath tub and wash basin, then forward to see the Tenders and Water Wagon, and then what's left of the port Stannier Type 8F Locomotive and boiler.

The second late morning dive (Dive #13) we were at Sha'ab Ali and the Kingston wreck. The first time I've dived this, the stern half is penetratable but it's really just a skeleton, and largly colonised by soft and hard coral. Nice swin through the rudder propeller opening. Plenty of critters to see here; school of Sergeant Major, Bumphead Parrotfish, Corcodilefish, Arabian Angelfish, Moray and Midas Blennie to name just a few.

Mid-afternoon (Dive #14) we were at small Gubal Island and the Barge. My buddy and I did a nice little unguided dive around the barge and the surrounding reef. Lots of reef life but highlights were a Crocodilefish, Scorpionfish, Stonefish and two Morays although other dives say they saw Octopus and Turtle.
Early evening or late afternoon we dropped into the water to snorkel with some passing Dolphins. Nice!

I didn't do the night dive. My ear had been creaking and poping all day and I thought it prudent to give it a rest rather than push my luck. I was grateful it had held out for the 3 dives just done. Put some ear drops in and fingers crossed for tomorrow.

Crocodilefish

Me and Thistlegorm Anti-Aircraft Gun

SS Carnatic

Nudibranch - Yelow Spotted Flatworm

26th July 2025

First dive Saturday morning (Dive #15), was at Abu N'has and the wreck of the SS Carnatic sitting on a sandy bottom at 45 degrees. I've dived it twice before, in 2011 and recently in 2023. It is a nice wreck dive with full penetration at both ends, the middle being mostly flattened. It contained the usual reef life, both fish and coral, but nothing spectacular. On the way to the wreck site we saw Dolphins and also on the way back, so we stopped and jumped in to snorkel with them.

Just after 11am we were in the rhib (Dive #16) heading for the Chrisoula K, the "Tile Wreck", an excellent wreck dive at Abu N'has which again, I've dived twice before in 2011 and 2023. Lots of penetration fore and aft but engine room is now out of bounds due to collapse making it too dangerous. Pass through the 2 holds which still hold the neatly stacked Italian tiles, the intact bridge deck and swim down to the massive rudder and propeller at 27mtr.
Wildlife seen included Yellow Spotted Flatworm Nudibranch, Arabian Angelfish, Batfish, Red Sea Anemonefish with young, Red Sea Steepheaded Parrotfish, Blue Triggerfish.

After lunch (Dive #17) we headed out on the rhib for the Giannis D, another Abu N'has wreck and an excellent dive. Lots of penetration diving, through the massive engine room on 45 degree tilt, up to the bridge and through the machine shop, etc. Usual wreck critters to be seen and a lovely Blue Spotted Stingray on the reef outside. We'd seen the Dolphins on the way to the wreck and hoped they'd still be there on the way back. We swam underwater across the reef heading back to the Ghazala Adventure and as we cleared the reef near the boat, there they were, just as we were about to send up an SMB. Quite a treat to meet them underwater in their own environment, must have been 7 or 8 of them in the pod, with at least two calves. See the picture in the header. Highlight of the day.

The night dive (Dive #18) today was back at Sha'ab El Erg, a nice peaceful dive, couple of Moray, Stonefish, Nudibranch and a small, very shy, Octopus.

27th July 2025

It's Sunday and sadly the day before I go home. After today's 2 dives we get our kit dry and start packing, have a walk around Hurghada marina and perhaps a cold beer in one of the bars, then back for the last night on the boat.
First dive today (Dive #19) is Umm Gammar, a place which seems to have various ways of spelling it, depending on who you talk to. A reasonably deep dive at 27m+ with a nice coral cave to swim through. The usual reef critters but also a couple of nice Morays, Devil Scorpionfish and Masked Butterflyfish.

The second and last dive today (Dive #20) was at Sha'ab Abu Nugat. A nice chill out dive to finish with, at arround 12m on a busy, colourful reef with lots of small critters, and amongst them; Masked Pufferfish, Yellowfin Goatfish and Blue Spotted Stingray trying to hide under some coral.

Hurghada Marina

It was very hot in Hurghada, as it was for the whole trip, so a nice cold beer on the harbour front that afternoon was very welcome. I seem to regularly come down with both ear and stomach problems on these liveaboard holidays so I now come well prepared with appropriate medication, although there was similar, if not better medication on the boat. As the DG said during the initial orientation when we came aboard; "Egyptian drugs for Egyption bugs". Too right.

Devil Scorpionfish

Blue Spotted Stingray